Safari Part IV

The Hadzabe!

As I've recounted stories from my safari trip- there is one aspect that seems to capture people's imagination. Our time with the Hadzabe tribe.

It's rather understandable- there are less than 1,500 people left of this tribe. They are one of the most primitive tribes left in the world. Lifespans are only up to 40 years of age because of their harsh life. No huts or caves or homes- they completely live in the bush. They eat what they can shoot with their bow and arrow (turns out their favorite is eating baboons!) They also subsist on wild nuts and berries to add to their primarily-carnivorous diet.

We drove through the bush for about an hour over unpaved hillside to get to this particular family of 14-20. They are shunned by other Hadzabe because they 'accept' tourists. Actually, they have gained more of a world-view because a Harvard professor studied them with the help of a local mediator, Mustafa. We were lucky enough to pick up Mustafa who did the same for us. He asked them for permission for our visit, and they immediately approached us with warm handshakes (taught to them by some Westerner, no doubt!) Generally Hadzabe do not wear clothing, but this family has leaned some amount of shame from so many visitors and so they cut off trousers and turn them into shorts when they see tourists arriving.

Even though we had to communicate with them through Mustafa, we could feel their warmth and hospitality. They seemed to be a simple, kind-hearted people that lived more harmoniously with their surroundings than most of us could dream possible!

They showed us how they make arrows- straightening them with their teeth. And then they showed us their precise hunting ability with some target practice (we joined in!)

Mustafa all of a sudden asked, "Normally, if you want to watch them hunting, you have to arrive at 4 in the morning and trek with them. But I saw a wild cat killed at the side of the road... what if we asked if they are interested in a little snack?"

Of course we were interested! But at the same time, we couldn't help but be a bit repulsed by the fact that we were about to watch three teenage boy chow-down on some road-kill!

Well, Mostafa asked the boys in their click-lanaguage if they wanted to eat this cat... and they were filled with excitement! They gathered up their bows and arrows and started walking down the path. But Mostafa stopped them and asked if they wanted to go by car- it was quite a distance and Arun and I didn't have too much time.

Those boys have NEVER been inside a car before in their lives. They were delighted-thrilled-and completely scared out of their minds. Mostafa translated for us:

They're saying, "The trees are running!"
And we watched the poor boys as they held on to the sides of the car for dear life shrieking as the trees rustled up against our jeep.

Finally, we arrived, and the boys went out to check their mid-day meal. They seemed rather relieved as they clamored out of the vehicle and back unto solid land. They excitedly clicked to one another as they examined their 'freebie' meal- one they didn't have to exert any hunting energy for.

I won't explain in graphic detail but quicker than I could microwave a TV dinner- they had a fire up and roaring- and threw the cat over the fire to singe the fur off. Then they created a 'plate' of sorts out of leaves, made some skewers out of branches and were dining!

It was a rather surreal experience!

In fact, local tribes, who keep their distance from the Hadzabe (and never really interact with them) stopped by to watch as well. They were equally amazed at the ability to digest, essentially what amounted to raw meat!

After the boys finished up- they covered their 'pit' up with dirt and then happily headed back on foot to their bush.

We wondered if they would have preferred going back by car- afterall, didn't they enjoy the experience? But as we watched them with their carefree gait, heading through the bush- we realized, no- they are truly happy. They have an inner-peace that those of us with so many wants-and needs can not achieve. They are the lucky ones.